Thursday, December 29, 2016

South of Broad

South of Broad
Dave and  I just spent one of the best, for me, Christmas holidays ever in Atlanta.  It was over-the-top great family time.  But one sad/happy thing:  Dave wasn't able to get to his daughter's house in Chicago (first time ever!) But that meant we spent Christmas together (first time ever!)

Then we spent a couple of days in one of the most popular and exquisitely beautiful cities in the South, Charleston, South Carolina.

Mother Emanuel
Most folks who know anything about Charleston know the term "South of Broad."  It refers to a exclusive, old area of the city, full of stunning architecture.  It was made popular by one of my favorite writers, Pat Conroy in his book "South of Broad."  In the book Conroy dealt with the underbelly of this area, namely racism and classism.

The last time we had a tour in Charleston I asked the guide why he never mentioned Pat Conroy.  He said, "We don't like him here."

Charleston is no different from other cities with a long history of wealth and power.  Winter Park, Florida which you know how much I love, has a long history of discrimination.

Dave spent his entire adult life before me in Edina, Minnesota. Most of the folks outside Edina call the folks in Edina "Cake Eaters."

On Tuesday we saw Mother Emanuel AME Church, where, in 2015, Dylann Roof shot and killed nine people in a 'Bible Study.  This was not south of Broad.  We had lunch at Magnolia's, a restaurant recommended by Dave's daughter.  It was exquisite.  It was south of Broad.

We toured the Citadel - my first time.  So impressive!  Huge and all white.

At the end of our tour around the city, after everyone else had disembarked, I asked our tour guide why the previous guide said, "We don't like Pat Conroy in Charleston."  This guide, who actually went to the Citadel with Pat Conroy, told us some people don't like the way he portrayed the city but what they really disliked was how he portrayed the Citadel in his book, "The Lords of Discipline."

Pat Conroy was one of our great southern writers.  I would encourage you to read his novels, starting with "The Prince of Tides."  They will make you love Charleston, even with its underbelly of discrimination and cruelty.  This exists everywhere and I'm grateful to writers, especially our southern writers, who help us see it.


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